Fan by itself is rated at 24-56VDC 0.46A. This fan is the type that can be taken apart and the circuit removed unlike most other DC fans. We were the first to show how to do this back in 2005.
There are now two options to convert this Fan to produce 'radiant energy' as of June 3, 2016. Option one is to use the internal circuity of the fan and add two diodes and wires without doing anything else so that this motor will continue to run exactly the same as before, but now you charge up a second battery for free. This uses the internal Hall switching which is positive energy triggering (so we produce positive 'radiant' energy and this means you can rotate the batteries around). The benefit is that you can show people this amazing thing with before and after measurements. Also the motor self-starts. The disadvantage over the second option is that the charging bank is limited to using the same voltage as the input battery (24-56VDC) and the amount of charging has less potential than the second option below. You can have us assemble it this way for $40 more.
The second option gives you all the parts needed to construct the fan kit to produce Negative radiant energy (this means you can run the motor at 9V to maybe 200VDC and charge batteries up to 250VDC even if you use 12V input). The difference is that we use one of the internal coils for a trigger coil. This means we do not use the internal parts and have to separate the wires from the board and run the wires out to an external circuit. This will not self-start, but just takes a little spin to get going. Input voltages over 36V may require better heat sink for transistors if you push them over 0.75A. Parts included with this option are 1 potentiometer, two 2W resistors, diodes, one transistor, neon bulb, wires, battery clips, the pulser circuit with scr, capacitor and diode (which allows for conversion of the negative energy to a positive energy so you can rotate batteries around). If you use this section option you without the pulser then the negative energy output can create more potential for charging. This option is harder to tune and get the most ideal sweetspot as battery voltages and thus RPMs change.
Does not come with tools, glue, or solder. The supper lube is only added to the bearings of the assembled kits.